Little Italy

There is a train of thought that says waiters are much like children: they should be seen and not heard.

Which is somewhat of a pity, as you miss out on a lot if you ignore either.

Little Italy is a prime example. Here, the waiters are as much a part of the meal as the salad or fork.

As soon as we entered, they were on hand to place a napkin on our laps and arrange our cutlery in the correct order. They were knowledgeable without being pushy, and kept up a good supply of pre-meal bread.

When it came to taking photos, they were again eager to get involved and help out, and just as keen to see the results of their work.

Little Italy has a warm, welcoming, feel, helped not only by the waiters but also by the cosy décor.

When it comes to the food, there is a small antipasto range, and the usual spaghetti, pizza, and pasta options. I went for the ham pizza (140 baht for a small version) while my partner had the spaghetti carbonara (180 baht).

Downstairs there are only seven tables, so often there can be more staff than diners, although upstairs dining is also available. A little doorbell chimes to signal the food is ready, at which point the waiters rush off to find your dish.

Little Italy is happy with what it is, a small, honest, café-type venue with no pretence. Italian bank notes are pinned to the wall, jigsaw Zodiac signs hang on the opposite wall, and wicker lights hang from a carriage wheel in the centre of the room. It’s like you’ve stepped into great grandpa’s living room.

The pizza was soft and thin, and although it was the relatively bland-sounding ham version, there were plenty of accompanying cheeses and herbs to make it stand out. The carbonara also did the trick, not over-cooked and with just the right amount of cream.

Little Italy is a good place to visit if you want to avoid the lager-swilling tourist louts and find a tranquil corner of town that’s still within walking distance of the action.